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Pizzeria (%0905396528; Vetrová 4; pizzas 100-160Sk) a post office, an ATM and a bus stop. The and mock battles. To get to the castle, cross you re travelling to Spiaska Kapitula by bus
For such a smoky, nameless place, they really Spiaské Podhradie train station is 1.5km east the tracks near the train station and follow the from Levo%0Å„a, get off before the main town at
don t serve bad pizza. Upstairs, two apart- of the centre, below the path to the castle. yellow markers up the steep trail. By car, the Spiaské Podhradie, Kapitula.
ments with kitchens (1000Sk) and one small Spiaská Kapitula is on another ridge 1km easiest approach to the castle is via the main
single room (500Sk) are for rent. west of Spiaské Podhradie, and has its own highway from the east (Preaov) side. SPI`SKÁ NOVÁ VES
bus stop. For a day trip arrive early and give
%053 / pop 39,200
Getting There & Away yourself at least 4½ hours (including walking SPI`SKÁ KAPITULA You may have to stop at this unfortunate town
Buses travel to Spiaské Podhradie (22Sk, 20 time) to see both the castle and Spiaská Ka- Another national treasure is a short distance on the Hornád river before going to nearby
minutes, 11 daily) and to Poprad (40Sk, 30 pitula. You may be able to leave your bags at away. The partially active Spiaská Kapitula Slovenský raj National Park; there are few
minutes, 21 daily), which has onward train the train station (ask the stationmaster very, (Spia Chapter) is an ecclesiastical complex built markets within the park s boundaries and
connections on the main Bratislava Koaice very nicely). in the 13th century, completely encircled by a to get to most of the park villages requires
line. Two to five buses a day wend their way 16th-century wall. Charming Gothic houses a transport change here. No need to linger
to and from Koaice (128Sk, two hours). Buses Sights & Activities line the single street running between the two though.
also run to Spiaská Nová Ves (18Sk, 20 min- SPI` CASTLE medieval gates. Buy tickets and pick up a guide The bus and train stations are northwest
utes, every half hour), which is not a great You may think you re experiencing déjU vu from the Information Office (%0907388411; adult/ of the centre; walk south on Odborárov and
town, but it is on the main train line (and is a the first time you catch a glimpse of the pho- student 20/10Sk; h11.15am-2.45pm). At the upper turn left on Dulianska, which morphs into
gateway to Slovenský raj National Park). togenic ruins of Spia castle (Spiaský hrad; %454 end is the magnificent Romanesque St Mar- the main square Radni%0Å„né nám, bounded by
1336; www.spisskyhrad.com in Slovak; adult/student 100/60Sk; tin s Cathedral (Katedrál sv Martin; 1273) with Letná and Zimná (Summer and Winter).
SPI`SKÉ PODHRADIE & AROUND twin towers and an ancient Gothic sanctuary. There s an ATM at the train station and at
h9am-6pm May-Oct, by appointment Nov-Apr); the cas-
From far down the motorway you catch tle appears on so much Slovak promotional Inside are several trifold painted Gothic altars banks on the main square. Help at the Tourist
glimpses of eerie outlines and stony walls material (showing the field below it alternately from the 15th century that are impressive. On Information Centre (Map p421;%442 8292; Letná 49;
crowning a ridge. Can it really be that big? covered in snow or flowers). One of the big- either side of the cathedral are the seminary
h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat Jun-Sep, 8am-
you think. Once you re upon it you realise gest castles in Central Europe, it has been a (seminára) and the Renaissance bishop s palace 4.30pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) is hit or miss. Connect to
how truly daunting the sight of Spia castle Unesco World Heritage site since 1993. (biskupský palác; 1652). the wider world at Internet Klub (Map p421;%441
4402; Letná 4; per hr 50Sk; h9am-9pm).
Sleeping & Eating Opposite the bus station is a massive Billa
WHO THE HECK IS MASTER PAVOL?
Penzión Podzámok (%454 1755; www.penzionpodzamok supermarket (Map p421), which is the best
Why, he s from Levo%0Å„a, of course, just ask anyone. But the nation s premier medieval artist is a .sk; Podzámková 28, Spiaské Podhradie; s/d without bathroom thing about the place. If you re waiting for
bit more elusive than that. He was a sculptor and carver who did amazing Gothic things with 300/650Sk; ps) Three family houses cobbled the tourist office to open after a break, you
wood during the 15th and early 16th centuries OK we ve got that. And he had a woodcarving together make a 42-bed guesthouse (meals could eat at Café Nostalgia (Map p421; Letná 49; mains
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